Northern Ireland Day 5: The Causeway Coast

Wednesday was a great day!  The weather is the typical Irish weather we expected: cold, damp with rain off and on.  We had to just get going rather than wait for the sun, otherwise we would still be sitting in the house watching BBC Breakfast and drinking tea. 

We made a great decision to head for Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge as our first stop.  The sight opened at 10am and as a National Trust location, we were able to slip in without paying an entrance fee as we had our temporary membership card on hand.  When we pulled into the parking lot there were not more than six other cars already there, most of those for the Trust Rangers on duty.  We made our way down the path with the wind whipping around us.  The ranger at the gate indicated the bridge was open, but commented that the day before the bridge had been closed to visitors for most of the day because of the high winds.  We quickly made our way along so as to be sure to risk the crossing before they thought better of our safety and closed it. 

The views of the coast as you make your way toward Carrick Island are stunning and worth the trek even if the bridge were closed.  The gray skies were not discoloring our excitement as we climbed a hill and rounded a corner to start our descent toward the bridge.  There is a guard with a gate at the top of the bridge to limit the number of people crossing at a time.  Just as we arrived, a group of three other tourists were making their way over the bridge and up the stairs to go back to the car park.  We were all alone!  Our timing was great, and we would be able to have the island to ourselves!  I stopped each child as he/she crossed the bridge for a photo midway.  Once all across, we were able to take in the views from the island.  We noticed some old structures on the eastern side that had fallen into disrepair.  Other than that there isn't much of an island or much to do, so we made our way back across.  The ranger at the gate to the bridge told us how the island had been used for fishing salmon for almost 400 years, but that ended in about 1995.  One of the last fisherman is still alive in the area and tells how when he first started fishing the waters there, they would catch almost 500 in a day in July, but that in 1995 only 350 has been caught during the entire season.  There were only ever 5-6 fisherman and then the rest were fish carriers who would bring them up and over the rope bridge to an ice house.  If you could have felt the weather whipping at us, you could understand that it would take quite a constitution to withstand such a lifestyle.  I don't think my boys could have done it!

Carrick Island is the largest one closest to the cliff.

crossing the bridge to Carrick island

kids on the island

making our way back to the mainland

view of the bridge from and overlook

With a spring in our step, we bounced back into the car and headed along the coast route to Kinbane Castle.  Down a VERY narrow road we arrived at a car park.  We were the only ones making the trek out to these ruins at this time.  At 11am the skies were still gray, but the wind prohibited the use of umbrellas as we made our way out.  The trail was well marked and we easily made our way down, down the steps and around the side of the cliff wall when the rock promintory with the ruins of the castle came into view.  This prompted my pondering of the comments between the newly married couple arriving at their castle:

Patrick: (cause you know everyone from Ireland is named Patrick) "So, Mary, what do you think?!" he asks with a hue grin and much machismo (he's travelled to Italy and has machismo)

Mary: "I'm not living out there!  It's freaking cold out here and the wind and salt water are ruining my hair!"

Patrick: "But Mary it's a CASTLE!"

Mary: "I don't give a sheep's arse!  This is hell on Earth!"

Patrick: "I'll promise your mother and sister can come visit whenever they want..."

Mary:  "Whenever..."

Patrick:  "Whenever..."

Mary:  "Alright, but you better not back out on your word or I'll personally push you off the cliff!"

The weather here makes me realize why Patrick and Mary have so many children!!!!  Between being stuck on this promintory for a great deal of the time and the need to keep warm.... you get my drift!

The kids had fun exploring the ruins and other than one incident when Cameron was almost pushed off the top by his big brother (they were actually much further from the edge than we had really been able to see), it was a great stop.  Even better because we were there all alone.  It's fun to make up stories and climb without feeling as if you are disturbing someone else's holiday.

"Mary, m'love, welcome home!"

Cozy, seaside cottage!

With a hike back up the hill to continue to push our quadriceps still tired and sore from Sunday's trip in the Mourne Mountains, we stopped in the parking lot for a snack and trips to the toilets.  Then we were on our way to Bushmills.

In Bushmills, we had lunch on our mind, but we also took some time to pop into a shop or two.  First we dropped off a few postcards at the post office/gift shop where the shopkeeper was very upset to see children touching anything.  Most of the tour buses stopping in town were of an older clientele, so I think she just wasn't accustomed to children, or she had lost her job as the wicked witch of Ireland.  Then we trudged all the way through town to a small cafe.  There were only a few locals popping in to pick up their To Go lunches.  They did have a kids menu, so we figured it couldn't be too bad.  It was like an American diner and everyone found something.  With bellies full, we made our way back to the car with quick stops in a few shops to look for a tea cup.  I like to collect a tea cup from my vacations, but nothing caught my fancy.

Our travels took us back to the Giant's Causeway.  The day before we had only stopped half way along the walking path and we wanted to go beyond.  We also had time for the kids to just relax and run around on the rocks.  That is the best part of the sight; you get to actually go out and experience it.  The wind was still blowing and the sun was in and out.  Rain would start and stop, but we headed down anyway.  We took our time to look at the rock formations pointed out in the small guide: the camel, the granny, and the giant's boot.  The trail to the Organ was closed but we managed to zoom in for a photo.  The rain managed to stop long enough for sun to shine through the drops and display a rainbow over the causeway.  With so many fewer people touring at this time of the year, I was able to get a photo without any people in it!  You would think we had a private tour of the place.  It was great.  But honestly, I look at the postcards in the shop of the area in summer sun with people in shorts and t-shirts and wonder which time of year is better:  nice weather, tons of tourist or yucky weather, few tourists.

The Giant's Boot

My pot of gold under the rainbow!

Rainbow over the Giant's Causeway

We made our way back up the hill to the visitors center where the National Trust shop was chockablock of great stuff.  I found a great jumper (sweater) to replace one from four years ago when we last travelled to Ireland and a fun ornament for our Christmas tree.  It was about 3:00 but we thought it would be great to call it a day and relax in the cottage so we made our way the 3 miles down the road to the house we rented. 

Uh Oh!  We all piled out of the car in the driveway and waited while the look on Steve's face turned to panic.  He had emptied all of his pockets, but the key to the cottage was not there!  I tried not to say anything (you all know this is not easy for me).  I called the kids to get back in the car.  Once piled in, we turned around and started retracing our steps.  Should we go to the furthest point first or the last point first?

We headed toward the farthest point: Kinbane Castle.  The drive down the road was torture!  Besides being windy, there was a car in front of us actually following the speed limit!  We decided to pull off at a sight that we had stopped at but not actually walked because of the weather in order to allow more distance between us and the car in front.

We pulled over at the car park for White Park Bay.  We had stopped there between Kinbane and lunch to consider a walk on the beach.  When we parked the car and started out, we realized it was quite a long way down to the beach and therefore a big hike back up.  The wind was blowing and the rain was actually falling at that time.  We had turned around at the top of the hill and returned to the car.  Steve thought that the key must have fallen out as he took car keys in and out of his pocket throughout the day.  An inspection of the parking lot was to no avail.  We would have to continue on.

We proceeded along the road in the same direction when we next came to the entrance for Carrick-a-Rede, our first stop.  We pulled in and drove down to the parking area.  Jacob and I jumped out of the car and looked around the parked cars.  There were many more cars here now than early in the morning.  I was happy to have Jacob look under cars; I didn't want people to come along thinking I was casing the area!  Steve went to talk to the Trust Rangers.  I suddenly saw him run off toward the ticket entrance booth.  That was a good sign.  Jacob and I returned to the warmth of the car.  Steve was soon back with the key in his hand.  Someone had found it and turned it in!  Yeah!  It was only a 30 minute detour and there was success.  Hey, we did get another long look out over the Causeway Coast before calling it a day on our sightseeing.

Our day wasn't over.  Although I had made spaghetti dinner the day before, tonight I was awarded a night off from cooking.  We drove over to the town of Portrush to the restaurant 55 Degrees North.  This place is great with amazing views and a kids menu!  (can you see an important distinction of a good restaurant is a Kids Menu)  A great end to a great day.