I arrived in Munich an hour later than planned due to Friday evening delays, so we started our weekend with a very late night dinner at about 11pm. Allison had been waiting patiently in the hotel lobby for me, nursing a glass of wine or two and enjoying the facetime. We were in the center of the city, just around the block from the main Christmas market. In addition, we were around the corner the other way from the Hofbrauhaus, another Munich tradition. We actually headed across the street from the Hofbrauhaus to the Hard Rock Cafe which was actually one of the very few places with a grill still going that late. If you know the de Waards, then you know our quirky affinity toward HRC. It started when we lived in Holland and needed a good fix of American food every once in a while. It also is one place that has something on the menu that all three kids will want for dinner, making it a good stop for at least one meal in all the major European cities. So, weinerschnitzel would have to wait a day, and we indulged in American fare for our first evening.
Our second day started late, because we could! We found a continental breakfast in a coffee shop off of the Town Hall square. With a caffeine injection we were able to start our prowl of the city. The first market we hit was the main one at the Town Hall. We even caught the Glockenspiel play at noon! (sometimes it pays to get up late...)
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| Munich Christmas Market |
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| Glockenspiel at Town Hall |
We perused the stalls and wandered down streets in just about every direction. We had a map, but we weren't really using it, rather opting to follow the crowds. Before one o'clock we had our first mug of gluhwein: spicy and warm to get us in the spirit of the markets.
We found our way to the Manger Market and then on to an ice rink at Karlsplatz. From there we continued checking out the multitude of gift ideas by wandering over to the market at Sendlinger Tor. Where the market at the town hall (Marienplatz) was mostly Christmas decorations and the nativity market mostly creches and the figures to fill the creche, this market actually had a wonderful selection of gift items. Still not ready to buy, we mostly looked, but as we had not yet hit the beer houses, we remembered where we found the things we liked most!
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| Viktualienmarkt in Munich...yet another one! |
We decided to try our luck across the street at the Augustiner am Platzl. We were able to slide into a table as a couple got up to leave but now the difficult part came. We had to get the attention of a waitress! The waitresses here and it seems everywhere in the center of Munich wear the traditional Bavarian dress, which I guess leads to the cantankerous looks on their faces. When we did catch her to order beer she was not all smiles and helpfullness. Actually two gentlemen at a talbe near us who has also just sat down stepped in to make sure we actually ordered a beer that would agree with our American palettes. She brought us the beers but then seemed to ignore our desperate glares imploring her to take our food orders. We had ordered Liters of beer, so I guess she figured she had plenty of time to get back to us, but I needed to get food in my stomach if I was going to be able to walk out of the restaurant with a liter of beer in it! Apparently, the tables around us were having a similar problem, yet every time she walked by our area, she kept her scowl firmly pasted and her head down. Uggh. Finally we did get to place an order for two schnitzels. She asked us something about the order, I have no idea what, buy I said "sure" and she actually smiled! Alli saw it! After a liter of beer, I was very tempted to ask her if I could get my picture taken with her, but was still sober enough to think better of it!
After dinner, it still seemed early at 9:45, so we headed back to the Hofbrauhaus and had much better luck at landing a table. When in Germany do as the Germans do, so we ordered another liter each! A younger Italian couple sat down next to us and the fun of the beer house commenced. We learned that Francesca and Sergio were also on vacation for the weekend and that Sergio could not speak any English, or German! Francesca was doing all the translating, which we found amusing as we could talk about Sergio right in front of him! He was a really good sport and even bought us each another half liter! (Have you been keeping track and doing the math. I'll help you out, the total for the day was 3 liters!) Thankfully the Hofbrauhaus closes at 11:30 so we could still walk home.
Sunday was another late start. Not surprising, I'm sure. We actually found a really nice cafe across the street from the hotel where we had brunch the next three mornings. The waitress was particularly cheery and helpful and told us of another market to check out. With no specific plan for the day, we took her advice and wandered deep into the Englischer Garten to a market at the pagoda where in the summer a lively beer garden is waiting. The brisk air made for a great walk. We even saw the river where people actually surf! There were about half a dozen crazy people in wet suits attempting the waves in the frosty afternoon. A light snow had blanketed the area and kids were even managing to find small slopes for sledding and enough snow to make mini snowmen. After our trip to that market we found the Medieval market at the Odeonsplatz and the snow started falling! It was big, heavy flakes that soak your hair and wool coats. Not able to enjoy the market we found shelter in a Starbucks. One thing nice is that you can pretty much order in English and it's all the same so you don't feel guilty not trying a few words of German beyond "Danke."
Sunday evening we made our way back to the Marienplatz market for the 500 year-old tradition of the Krampus Run. This is an obscure tradition where members of the Sparifankerl Pass dress up in archaic costumes and run through the crowded market. With only a photo on the website to go by, we were interested to see what this was all about. We made our way over to a gluhwein stall and found warm beverages to spin us in the Christmas market mood. Suddenly, we heard crazy cow bell type clanging from across the square and these crazy figures appeared. They characters would come around with switches and snap at your legs with them and get right in your face. Oh, the little boy who was not so happy to have a Krampus in his face! If you think Santa is scary, you cannot even imagine the level of fear leveled by these guys! Below is a picture of Alli with one of them.
We had a great time in Munich and I would actually go back again. I bet it would be lots of fun in the summer! Below are a few photos from the market. Many thanks to Allison for being my drinking buddy and guide for the weekend. Merry Christmas everyone!
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| Lebkuken and other treats |
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| Ornaments |
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| Nutcrackers! |
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